We make one more ride down Revolucion de 1910 in La Paz, stopping at the neveria for horchata, the panaderia for sweet treats and the grocery for avacados. Bellies and bags full, we climb up and away from town.
The pavement takes us to La Ventana. It turns out kite boarding is a thing here. It’s almost like the balloon festival, but with kites captained by Canadians. The tide is low and we ride the beach, dodging strings and beginners.
Weather is blowing in and we find a quiet, empty space to sleep in the dunes.
Past San Juan de Los Planes the pavement runs out. We share the dirt road with four kids in a side by side, cruising up and down, up and down.
Soon, we go up. The grades in Mexico have been steep and this road is no different. I look down at the paved road, cars and resort below us and breathe a little easier. It’s just us and the cows again.
The road descends through a wash alive with butterflies and then climbs a bit more to the cliffs along the coast. I sit back and hold on. The downhills are just as challenging as the uphills.
At the end, an empty beach with our name on it.
As the sun is setting, Javier and Gonzalo ride by. We met them on the road out of La Paz. They are from Mexico City and have a week or so to ride from there to Cabo Pulmo. They join us at our camp spot and we learn more about Mexico.
The road takes us along the coast. We dip in and out of tourist towns long enough to fill up on food and water. We sleep on quiet beaches. We see birds flock after bait balls in the sea, and watch manta rays wing by in the water. Whale tales splash on the horizon. The desert is even green here.
We walk along the coast near Cabo Pulmo and see this. I don’t understand what’s happening. Maybe a geologist or oceanographer can help me out? It’s like mother nature dumped a load of perfectly round sea stones and left them.
We follow the road to San Jose, and the doorstep of an old friend.