We gaze down at Durango. Heavy smog blankets the city. We’re hesitant to descend down to it, but the city has services we need. Down we go.
My eyes burn, nose runs and throat hurts. We’re lucky to be able to leave. We take the main road out of town and make a quick escape.
South of Sombrerete we follow quiet back roads, winding our way to Zacatecas. Some are dirt, some have been recently paved and a bit is even covered in cobblestones. The map is not always correct on this.
In Zacatecas the night lights dazzle my eyes. The architecture is stunning. Bands play in the streets. People dance. Mezcal is served from a six liter jug off the back of a donkey.
Our Warmshowers host Francisco takes us to the Quinta Real hotel. I have been reading Michner’s Mexico and get chills when I walk into the plaza. I imagine all the bull fights of years past. Francisco hauled radio equipment here for his Dad until the Plaza closed in 1975.
We wander the city, discovering nooks and crannies, eating gorditas, drinking cafe d’olla and visiting the panaderias.